Hanoi and Sapa: Our Family's Treasured Chronicle (A Six-Month-Late Post!)

 

This post is long overdue—six months, to be exact! But our family’s adventure through Northern Vietnam was too rich and eventful not to be recorded in our treasured family chronicle. This is our story of Hanoi’s hustle, Ha Long Bay’s serenity, and the one crucial lesson we learned high up in the misty mountains of Sapa.

Day 1 – First Taste of Hanoi

Our Hanoi adventure began with a very early start—up by 1 a.m. for a morning flight via Vietnam Airlines. After a smooth check-in and immigration at NAIA, we grabbed a quick Starbucks stop before boarding. The three-hour flight was on time and offered our first taste of Vietnamese cuisine: a simple but flavorful meal. My choice—beef with noodles—“pasado”.

At Hanoi’s modern Terminal 2, we breezed through immigration, and our appointed van whisked us away to the Old Quarter. Our home base, Hotel Allure, greeted us with its charming French-style façade—a welcome sight after our journey. Since it was far too early for the 2 p.m. check-in, we dropped our bags and set off to explore the streets with a hotel map in hand.

The day was hot and humid, the air thick with the buzz of motorbikes weaving through narrow streets as if they owned the road. Every sidewalk brimmed with shops and tiny food stalls. Out of curiosity, we ducked into an unusual coffee shop hidden up an unmarked stairwell. They offered an array of local brews; I chose an iced coffee laced with chocolate and egg yolk. Sweet, rich, and unlike anything I’d ever tasted—a first-day treat indeed!

The Food Tour: A Hearty Introduction

In the afternoon, our enthusiastic guide, Jasmine, led us on a walking food tour. We began with delicate vegetable rolls wrapped in rice paper, followed by a bowl of flavorful noodles topped with crunchy peanuts—very different from our Filipino pancit, but delicious nonetheless.

Braving the heat, we moved to a popular Banh Mi shop and savored the satisfying crunch of the baguette. Then, we squeezed through a narrow alley lined with paint supplies to find a hidden pho stall. Inside, massive pots simmered with rich chicken broth. The pho was hearty and comforting—the kind of soul food you’d crave on a rainy day, or in our case, even in the heat.

At our final coffee stop, Jasmine spoke candidly about Vietnamese life—its communist system with capitalist leanings, its rising living standards, and even some of their more exotic local delicacies. Like us, they enjoy fertilized duck eggs (our penoy), and while Filipinos cook fresh animal blood into dishes like dinuguan, the Vietnamese sometimes drink it fresh and uncooked—a custom quite unfamiliar to us. By day’s end, we finally checked into our clean, comfortable rooms.

Dinner found us on a bustling street where a restaurant owner graciously invited us to one of his outdoor tables. We ordered a small feast: pan-fried squid, oysters with scrambled eggs, fried vegetable rolls, leafy greens, and three kinds of fried rice. Everything was delicious—flavorful, hearty, and very affordable.

Day 2 – Limestone Giants of Ha Long Bay

Another early rise awaited us. After a hearty buffet breakfast—fresh fruits, yogurt, croissant with pâté, smoked fish, and fried eggs—we were ready for Ha Long Bay.

At 8 a.m., our bus arrived for the comfortable three-hour journey. Our guide, Kien (or ‘Sticky Rice,’ a moniker, I guess) kept us entertained with history lessons about Vietnam’s many wars—against the Chinese, Mongols, French, Japanese, and Americans—and how only after the American War did the nation truly find peace and progress.

A brief stop at a pearl factory gave us a fascinating look at how pearls form—sometimes taking up to nine years for a South Sea pearl. As with most tours, it also doubled as a gentle nudge for tourists to shop.

Soon after, we boarded our vessel for a Ha Long Bay cruise, surrounded by massive limestone formations that earned UNESCO World Heritage status. A plentiful seafood buffet lunch awaited us; the fresh shrimp was a highlight for me.

We then hiked to Hang Sung Sot (Surprise Cave), climbing steep steps to marvel at its immense stalagmites and stalactites. Later, we enjoyed a serene rowboat ride at Ba Ham Lake, gliding through limestone openings into a tranquil lake encircled by towering cliffs.

As the day ended, a sunset fruit-and-drink party on the deck made the perfect finale. Back in Hanoi by 9 p.m., we were tired but deeply grateful for the beauty we’d witnessed. We gave "Sticky Rice" a heartfelt tip for his excellent guiding.

Days 3 & 4 – Sapa: The Misty Mountain Lesson

Despite the long Ha Long Bay day, a good night’s rest revived us for our next journey—to Sapa, high in the northern mountains.

The sleeper bus was a pleasant surprise! My lower cubicle had a reclining bed, privacy curtain, and wide window. Six hours passed comfortably, with a couple of refreshment stops.

At 1 p.m., we arrived in Sapa and were transferred to the Pistachio Hotel, a lovely four-star property with spacious rooms. Famished, we went straight to the restaurant for a full-course lunch: soup, salad, beef pho, spring rolls, steamed chicken, and fried rice—excellent though a bit pricey, as hotel meals tend to be.

After a short rest, the hotel arranged transport to the Alpine Coaster and Moana Park. My children loved the coaster, where riders control their own speed while overlooking rice terraces. Sadly, rain and fog rolled in, making visibility almost zero. Still, the thrill kept spirits high—three of them rode twice!

Next, we visited Moana, a photographer’s paradise of art installations and scenic backdrops. Back at the hotel, we explored the facilities, then walked into Sapa’s lively town center lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. We capped the cold, damp day with a hot pot dinner—a hearty mix of meat, seafood, noodles, and vegetables in a flavorful broth. Perfect comfort food!

The Clear Morning and the Uncooperative Peak

Day four began with a 6 a.m. buffet breakfast and a rare gift: clear skies. For a brief moment, the surrounding mountains appeared in their full splendor. Energized, we prepared for our next adventure—Sun World–Fansipan.

Thanks to our daughters, QR tickets were prearranged, so we skipped the queues and rode the funicular up the slopes, admiring the forest and rice terraces below. At the cable car station, we joined crowds of eager local tourists for the long ride to the top.

Unfortunately, the rain returned, shrouding everything in fog. At the summit, visibility was near zero. My wife and I stayed dry, while our children, clad in plastic raincoats, braved the downpour. They returned wet but smiling, their photos revealing only glimpses of the grand structures buried in mist.

Here lies our lesson: in Sapa, timing is everything. Visit during Spring or Autumn if you wish to see the fabled terraces and Fansipan’s panoramic views.

We took one last look at the flower garden near the funicular, bought a few souvenirs, and made our way back. Our driver kindly waited as our hotel packed sandwiches for the road. By 1 p.m., we were once again nestled in our sleeper bus cabins, bound for Hanoi Airport and our evening flight home—carrying memories that, foggy or clear, now live on in our treasured family chronicle.